Thursday, 31 December 2009

Happy New Year

Thursday 31st December

No rain today, but I spent most of the day up until about 3 or 4 p.m. in doors, getting some work done forthe staff training I am running on my first day back: is intelligence like a balloon or a bucket? Is intelligence fixed or plastic?

I have been sitting in the breakfast room, which overlooks Sunset Boulevard, typing away. I am not sure why it is called Sunset Boulevard, it is more grey tarmac than golden sunsets.

I hope you have a great New Year and that it brings you health, happiness and ballooning good fortune.

Jan and I are going to celebrate when I get back, as it will be too depressing to do it apart. I am going to try and ring him at midnight UK time and at least wish him a good night and sweet dreams.

Wednesday, 30 December 2009

Precious

Wednesday 30th December

It was raining today. I am sorry to tell you that it is the first time it has rained since I arrived. But it meant plans had to go out the window.

I ended up going back to Santa Monica. It had been really sunny when I was there last. I was hoping that it might be far enough from Hollywood to be in a different time, if nor weather, zone. The bus journeys felt like it should be.

I saw two films: “Up in the Air”, George Clooney being very smooth, he could read the sewage instructions and still sparkle; and then “Precious: Based on the Novel 'Push' by Sapphire”, which has to be one of the longest film titles and is fantastic although very tough to watch.

I’d recommend them both, but may be not on the same afternoon.

On the way to see George Clooney, I came across someone campaigning to get gay marriages legalised here. They refer to them as same-sex marriages, which does sound somewhat more dowdy.

First they were legal, then they were not. Then they were again, now they are not. I am sure there is a joke there about bisexuality, but it escapes me.

I gave them some money towards their campaign; I explained I had a vested interest in it.

A Question of Biology

Wednesday 30th December

Watching American TV, there seems to a surprising amount of adverts for catheters. There is a company, appropriately called Liberator, which will supply them to you easily so you can stop reusing them.

In fact there seems to a large number of adverts which go into a lot of medical or biological detail, most of which I do not understand as I don’t have those specific internal organs.

But it is handy to know where I could go, if I did.

Tuesday, 29 December 2009

Bubbles and Squeak

Tuesday 29th December

I had my first good bit of cheese today. Admittedly I have had bits in salads and in scrambled eggs, but this was a platter of cheese cut wafer thin: blue vein and soft. It came with delicate slices of pear and of apple along with a small jar of quince jam, which makes it sound very Delia Smith.

The result of the beautiful, delicious cheese? Eggy burps.

Not very nice for those on the tube with me travelling back from LACMA.

LACMA is the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, in the way that all museums which want to sound important have to have an acronym as a name. They have some great work and then they have bubbles:
"Michael Jackson and Bubbles" by Jeff Koons, 1998


I am not sure about bubbles. There were was a plaque next to it which explained it to me in artistic terms, but I am still not sure about it.

7 of the things I hate about America

Tuesday 29th December

As promised.

  1. Everything is so goddamm spread out
  2. They don’t put tax on the menu or the price tag, so it always cost more than you thought it was going to
  3. Metro trains do not go most places and the bus system is far too complicated for me to get my head around.
  4. You have to tip everyone, for everything, everywhere, every time
  5. Working out a 17% or 18% tip is far more complicated than working out 10%, or even 15%. Fortunately there is an app for that.
  6. Temperatures are always given in Fahrenheit, so I have no idea if it is going to unbearably hot or excruciatingly cold. Fortunately there is an app for that.
  7. International House of Pancakes Restaurants. I’m not sure what makes them “international”, perhaps it is the fact they have maple syrup, or Seville oranges.

Monday, 28 December 2009

Holidaying Alone

Monday 28th December

I always knew it was going to be tough being out here alone, especially during Christmas and New Year. So before I came out I thought things through and decided that this was only going to work if I knew in advance and gave myself permission, as it were, to feel lonely and that it would be fine for me to do very little, if that is what I felt like at any particular point.

What is interesting is that we do not have to do much to still have a holiday, that we can still have a good time and feel alone. The two are not mutually exclusive.

Today, I did very little and hardly talked to anyone, but I still had a good time.

I did not get up till midday, because I was getting over being ill and I was tired. I then spent about 3-4 hours in a coffee shop with my laptop and a book. After that I went to see Sherlock Holmes at Gaumann’s Chinese Theatre.

That was about it.

Most of this I could have done back in London, it is true. I might have done. But I probably would not have.

Perhaps it is the fact that we tend not to have a day when we only do exactly what we want, rather than respond to the demands of other people and responsibilities (such as getting the washing done etc.).

It was bound to happen

Sunday 27th December

Getting ill, that is.

It may have been the cold at the Grand Canyon, or the chicken I ate there, or just a combination of tiredness and end of term catching up with me, but I arrived in Los Angeles accompanied by diarrhoea and cold.

I am staying in a hotel in Hollywood. It has air-conditioning. The only problem is that the remote control makes no sense to me. I can find my way around central heating but not a/c.

I thought the air conditioning was not working as I could not get it to do more than blow more cold air at me. However, after getting a hotel assistant to look at it (who is now my new amigo), the problem is not the a/c; it is me being British.

Sunday, 27 December 2009

Leaving Las Vegas

Sunday 27th December

It’s a tiring city. It wants you to do things its way, by which it means stay up very late, eat and drink and gamble huge amounts, take in shows and feel like you are 24 again. This is surprising since so many visitors here are much older than this. Or perhaps that explains it.

I have really enjoyed the spectacle, but sometimes it feels like satellite TV: you feel there is something even more exciting and memorable going on somewhere else.

Vegas is huge, but it wants you to believe that everything is see-able and do-able within a short space of time, if you only have the energy and money.

The Grand Canyon is a different kind of spectacle. The problem can be that you take it at Vegas-speed, without just sitting and spending time with it. The more you look and the less you do, the more it gives back.

I enjoyed Vegas but it has not been the relaxed and chilled time I thought it might be. I feel like I have eaten, drunk and gambled too much, stayed up too late and taken in shows, when I definitely have not. I categorically do not feel 24 again.

The last meal before leaving: it had to be the sugar-free lemon meringue pie. Take that as a metaphor if you want.

Saturday, 26 December 2009

Old Shrimps

Saturday 26th December

In Las Vegas, 60,000 lbs of shrimps are consumed every day.

If you stayed in a different hotel room every night in Vegas, it would take you 280 years to stay in them all.

The average age of the Las Vegas visitor is 50.6 years old.

85% of visitors to Las Vegas are American, only 15% are International.

Walking in the Air

Saturday 26th December

You have to put these booties over your shoes so you do not scratch the glass. Debbie, our lovely guide and driver, told us it has been imported from Cologne and so must cost a lot. No cameras or mobile phones are allowed on it, though I think this is more to make you shell out for the, admittedly very good, official photographers.

When you first step out on to the glass walkway, you think you are going to slip over and crash through the glass to the canyon floor below. With the cold wind blowing around, it looks like ice and you brace yourself for the fall.

In fact I could drag three Boeing 747s out on to it and it would still hold up, although it would finish me.

This is strong stuff. So you jump up and down on it, just to test it and yourself. It would be more than ironic if jumping was the one thing it was not designed to take.

The skywalk over the Grand Canyon does sway a bit but you feel very safe and, leaning over the side, hanging down into the space below, suspended in mid air by the glass from Cologne, the views are fantastic.

Skywalk, Grand Canyon West Rim

We were also taken to Bat Poop Point or, as it is officially called, Guano Point. They used to dig bat droppings out of the cave here for fertilizers and make-up – before women began to realise exactly what it was they were caking on their faces. Faeces, that is.

Friday, 25 December 2009

qaStah nuq?

Friday 25th December

Despite what the guide book says "Star Trek: The Experience" is not on here. You can imagine my disappointment.

I did consider going on "CSI: The Experience" instead, on the theory that it would at least be an experience. Instead I went back to the hotel and had "Sleep: The Experience"

I have still not done any gambling yet. I am not sure I will. I have nothing against the idea and if I squint I can see myself winning at roulette (but only because I do not have to work out what other people are holding in thei hands).

It is just every one seems so serious on the gambling tables, and the slot machine don't have the same kind of green-baize seriousness.

Click here to understand the blog sub-title.

Christmas in Vegas

Friday 25th December

The truth is that in Vegas, Christmas Day sounds and looks like any other day in Vegas: flashing lights, bells, overweight white men dressed in red carrying bags full of presents and over-consumption of food.

I haven't decided if that makes Christmas here easier or not?

There are at least two free, hotel displays which everyone goes to see: the fountains at Bellagio's and the volcano eruption at Mirage.

While they are both technically amazing they are also very funny, or at least they had me laughing out loud.

The fountains are fantastic. They are choreographed to dance and twirl to either opera or pop tunes.

Volcano - erupting daily at the Mirage,
synchronised to drum beats
The fountains at Bellagio's, synchronised to different tunes.
We got "Santa, baby, slip a sable under the tree"
The other thing is that both these displays take place right beside the busiest road in Vegas, the Strip. Drivers and pedestrians all stop to watch these displays which take place every hour or half hour. That only partly explains the horrendous traffic jams.

Is there such a thing as sugar-free lemon meringue pie?

Thursday 24th December

There is an all-you-can eat buffet here at the Luxor, appropriately enough in the bowels of the hotel-casino. You pay $30 and eat as much as you want, and can even come back later in the day to eat it all over again.

Everything was going fine: I was being very sensible, eating very slowly, savouring each mouthful; not too much food and not too little. The only thing different about me from everyone else was the fact that I was reading a book. But surely other people come to Vegas and read over supper?

Then I discovered the “sugar-free” lemon meringue pie. Next to it was the “sugar free” chocolate pie. Next to that was “fat-free” vanilla yoghurt.

I have not really had sugary food since August and the “sugar-free” label was too tempting. But can there be such a thing as “sugar-free” lemon meringue pie? Not judging by the taste of this one.

After one plate I felt like running round the restaurant like an excitable child. “Frisky” would be the way to describe the feeling. It does make me sound like a stampeding horse, which would be about right.

I only had one piece of the lemon pie. Then I had a piece of the chocolate pie. Then I had to stop, not because I was full, but because I know where the alternative leads.

This would be something the Lighter Life counsellor would see as a “good” thing. That, when faced with “sugar-free” sugar, I did not go crazy and have 15 pieces. I am just happy for the sugar rush I did get.

Thursday, 24 December 2009

Happy Christmas

Saturday 24th December

It is still just about Christmas Eve here but I know it is Christmas Day for you - so happy Christmas. I am thinking about you all today.

Lots of love,

al

Wednesday, 23 December 2009

This one's going to be tough

Wednsday 23rd December 2009

When Jan and I were planning this trip Las Vegas was always the first place we both knew we wanted to come. He had been before; this is my first time. I had always thoguth we would see it together.

Now I am here without Jan, it is going to be tough.

Immediatley you arrive in the airport, it feels like nowhere else. They have slot machines and gambling in the baggage reclaim area, along with large screens advertising Cirque de Soleil and Cher in Concert.

Outside there are enough neon lights and huge plasma screens to make Blackpool look gaudy. And I love a bit of neon.

We had booked rooms at the Luxor: the big, black pyramid of a hotel. When it was built it was one of the largets hotels in Vegas, now it is dwarfed by others around it. We decided not to waste the reservation, so here I am.

You can tell it is a luxurious room, as it has a table and arm chairs to sit on. No sitting on the bed to watch TV in this room.

Inside the hotel it is noisey, like a family of five demented children on the tube can be noisey. Everything wants your attention at the same time and insists that you join in with the fun.

It also has that feel of New Year's Eve, that you have to be having a fantastically exciting time right now, with everyone else.

I know that I will get used to it. Ironically it reminds me of Cairo (the real Egyptian city) which I found really difficult at first but ended up loving. But this one is going to be tough.

I know Jan is missing me just as much as I miss him.

Pumpkin Pecan Pancakes

Wednesday 23rd December 2009

A whole restaurant devoted to omlettes! In fact not an omlette restaurant but an omlette "parlour", which made me think there would be lace curtains and chintz, or at least tea served on best china.


In the end it was more barn than parlour, and I did not even have omlettes, going for pumpkin pecan pancakes instead. They sounded so American it would be impossible to eat them anywhere else. And I think I tipped the waiter more than I would have because his name was Jesse.


It has been one of those transition days, as I was waiting for the time to get the shuttle bus to airport to catch my flight to Las Vegas. So I spent the day walking around Santa Monica and Venice.


The Venice canals are impressively quiet. Even the 'For Sale" notices warn you to not disturb the occupants. They must be sleeping late. You can tell it is a good neighbourhood as they have notices urging you to protect the ducks from processed bread.



I did not try and get much done today - just walking along the beach and paddling in the ocean. Then I thought a picture of me sitting looking cool and pensive on the beach would be good.


But I forgot how much frantic dashing too and fro goes into pictures like this. First I had to try and work out again how the timer on the camera works. Then it took about 5 goes to get the camera pointing in the right direction.



You can see the footprints where I was sprinting back to be in position and try to listen carefully for the click of the shutter.

Tuesday, 22 December 2009

No Oil Painting

Tuesday 22n December 2009
For those who have not seen me since the now famous diet, this is me.

Getty Centre

Something missing

Getty Centre

At the Getty

Tuesday 22nd December 2009

If you could design and build the perfect art gallery, if money was no object and you had bought lots of land high up on a hill overlooking a city by the edge of the ocean, then this would be it.

And if you could visit it on a day which was brilliantly blue, with an almost cloudless sky, but not too hot and not too crowded, then today would be it.

The Getty Centre is outrageously good. It should not be allowed to be honest; it isn't fair. You hear people's jaws hitting the floor at the sight of some of the pieces.

Did I mention it is free?

When I die I want to come back as a paniting on a wall here. Not an oil painting obviously, perhaps some messy, impressionist, flower. Or a snail.

Monday, 21 December 2009

7 of the things I love about Americans

Monday 21st December 2009

Being my first time in US, to see Americans in their native habitat, as it were, it is clear that they are gorgeous:

  1. They cheer at the end of good films; they want you to know they enjoyed it
  2. In reality they are all hippies at heart: they just like to be friendly.
  3. Thet are all full of hope. Half of them hope the world is going to get better; the other half hope it will get worse, just to prove themselves right.
  4. You do not have to ask for a glass of tap water in restaurants – they automatically give you one and then come around to top it up, without you asking for it.
  5. They are genuinely happy to help you in shops.
  6. Fox News. It is so biased it is funny.
  7. They don’t care whether I love them or not; it makes not a jot of difference to them. Nor should it.

Coming soon: 7 of the things I hate about Americans

Did you miss the China trip?

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http//:janandal.blogspot.com/

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Santa Monica and Venice, LA

Muscle Beach, Santa Monica



Santa Monica Beach


Santa Monica Beach



Venice canals



Santa Monica Pier

Mad dogs and Golden Girls

Sunday 20th December 2009
I did get a bit lost coming back, around Marina del Rey. But the only danger was of being mugged by the Golden Girls.

The Venice canals area is beautiful, like a picture post card where the water actually moves and the people say hi as you pass by. Every house is different as well. There is less uniformity, perhaps because they are all much newer compared to our housing, and not built by Barratts.

But any negatives? Well this one guy tried to get aggressive with me because I would not listen to his CD which he was hawking. It was jazz he assured me not rap, which would make him the most threatening jazz musician I have come across. You just walk on by.

Also you get used to how a city is laid out, with houses lining every street and road, small shops at convnient distances and not great swathes of empty road. They plan cities differently here.

In the evening I found the main shopping area in Santa Monica. There is street entertainment as you shop and eat: slasa dancers, jazz musicians (of a less aggressive temperament), dogs skateboarding and someone singing the most mournful version of Christmas Carols you have heard (when he moved on to Lionel Richie "Say You, Say Me" I knew it was time to go).

Despite the warmth and general lack of all things winter-wonderland in Lalaland, it is interesting how much of their Christmas decorations centre around snow, reindeer and cheery Father Christmas wrapped up against the the cold.

Health Kick

Sunday 20th December 2009
The first thing I do in a new country is walk: to get a hang of where eaxtly I am, the city and what it is like. So on my first day here, I walked, a lot.

The problem is that LA is not designed for walkng around. It is built to be driven around in your big 4x4 or your small, city nipper.

Also, LA is not one city but lots, and they are all pretty large. So walking from Santa Monica, where my motel is, to Venice Beach and then on to Marina del Rey - and even as far as Playa del Rey is about 11 miles there and back, if you are a crow with a good sense of direction.

Walking along Santa Monica Beach and Venice Beach in the morning, people are out and about skating along with their dogs, exercising on Muscle Beach, shooting hoops on the courts, kicking soccer balls around, cycling with their kids, running, jogging, panting and pushing.

It is impressively healthy and with the sun coming out who blames them: beach volleeyball; a strange game called paddle ball, which looks like ping pong for those who never heard of tennis; fitness and weights groups; skateboarding 40 year olds.

The other thing is that everyone is unreservedly and unashamedly carrying on their conversations loudly. So we can all hear if we want, which of course I do. It is so friendly and open.

Leaving on a big plane

Saturday 19th December 2009
So therefore we decided Al would go on his own and we would make the best of a not-so-good situation. It was all very logical and rational, but when it came down to it is was a lot more emotional.

The Romans had a phrase for it "pis aller" - meaning the least worst alternative; not the best solution but better than other possibilities. The phrase sounds as down in the dumps as it is.

At the airport for me and back at home for Jan, there were tears. There was snot.

It is interesting how airports may be one of the few places you can have a public cry and no one takes a blind bit of notice. Passers-by assume you are upset about leaving a loved one behind. They are right.

Pis aller indeed.